In the world of dive watches, few names hold as much prestige and consistent admiration as the Omega Seamaster. It’s a watch line that has evolved gracefully over the decades, from vintage military issue pieces to modern-day technical masterpieces. But with evolution comes debate—especially when comparing older references to the latest iterations.

Today, we’re putting the spotlight on two of the most discussed Seamaster models: the Omega Seamaster 2264.50, a fan-favorite from the early 2000s, and the modern Co-Axial Seamaster Diver 300M, featuring the latest in Omega’s in-house movement tech.

Whether you’re a seasoned collector or considering your first Seamaster, one question remains: New or old? What would you pick?

Let’s explore the differences in styling, dimensions, performance, and wearability, and I’ll also share why I personally have a soft spot for the older reference. (Spoiler: proportions matter!) And if you’re looking to upgrade either model’s look, we’ve got something special for you at the end.

mmmm that looks so good.

Omega Seamaster 2264.50 – The Underrated Classic

The Seamaster 2264.50 is part of Omega’s Seamaster Professional Quartz line and shares much of its case and bracelet design with the 2531.80 “Bond” Seamaster. But don’t let the quartz movement fool you—this reference is far from basic. In fact, it’s a modern classic in its own right.

Design & Proportions

• Case diameter: 41mm

• Thickness: Just under 11mm

• Lug-to-lug: 47mm

• Lug width: 20mm

• Dial: Matte black with white luminous indices and sword-style hands

• Bezel: Black aluminum insert with engraved minute scale

This watch gets everything right when it comes to proportions. The thin case, relatively compact lug-to-lug distance, and lightweight build make it one of the most comfortable divers Omega has ever made. It slips under a cuff, hugs the wrist nicely, and wears more like a field watch than a chunky dive tool.

There’s something purposeful and no-nonsense about the 2264.50. It’s a design that doesn’t try too hard—it just works. The clean layout of the dial and the sword hands (which many prefer over the skeleton hands of other Seamaster models) provide excellent legibility both on land and underwater.

Movement – Quartz, But Not Basic

At its heart is the Omega Caliber 1538, a high-end quartz movement with a long battery life, end-of-life indicator (the second hand jumps in four-second intervals when the battery is low), and deadly precision—accurate to within seconds per month.

Yes, it’s quartz. But it’s purposeful quartz. For daily wear, travel, or weekend duty, it’s the ultimate grab-and-go Omega. You get the look and feel of a luxury diver, without the maintenance schedule of a mechanical movement.

Sleek and shiny! 

Modern Seamaster Co-Axial Diver 300M – Bold and Technically Brilliant

Fast forward to today’s Seamaster lineup, and you’ll find the Co-Axial Diver 300M, a fully modern evolution of the series. Think reference numbers like 210.30.42.20.01.001—these watches are bold, highly engineered, and unapologetically modern.

Design & Dimensions

• Case diameter: 42mm

• Thickness: Around 13.5mm

• Lug-to-lug: Roughly 50mm

• Lug width: 20mm

• Dial: Laser-engraved ceramic wave pattern with applied indices and date

• Bezel: Ceramic with white enamel diving scale

Omega went all-out with this update. From the ceramic dials and bezels to the transparent casebacks and laser detailing, the modern Co-Axial Seamasters are technical showpieces. The “wave” dial returns, paying homage to earlier references, but with a high-gloss, almost mirror-like finish. There’s a level of polish and shine here that screams luxury.

But with that comes bulk. The Co-Axial models wear thicker, taller, and heavier. For some wrists, especially under 6.75", they may feel a bit oversized. That doesn’t mean they’re uncomfortable—it just means they wear with more presence.

Movement – Co-Axial Excellence

The Co-Axial models feature Omega’s Caliber 8800, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. It’s:

• Anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gauss

• Highly accurate, even after exposure to shocks or magnetism

• Features a 55-hour power reserve

• Hacking seconds, quick-set date, and smooth winding

This is a serious piece of engineering, and Omega’s co-axial escapement design is meant to reduce friction and extend service intervals. For enthusiasts who want mechanical precision with modern reliability, this is about as good as it gets at the price point.

Why I Prefer the 2264.50

As impressive as the new Seamaster is—and trust me, I love what Omega’s doing—it’s the 2264.50 that continues to hold a special place in my collection. There’s a purity to its design, a kind of focused restraint that newer models have moved away from.

Most of all, it’s about the wearability.

The 2264.50 is:

• Slim enough to disappear under a sleeve

• Lightweight enough to wear all day

• Understated enough to suit any occasion

• I personally prefer less "shiny" materials such as ceramic bezels

It doesn’t scream for attention. It just does its job, quietly and reliably. And in a world where so many watches are getting bigger, louder, and more complex, the simplicity and thinness of the 2264.50 feel like a breath of fresh air

Final Thoughts

At the end of the day, there’s no right or wrong answer in the Seamaster debate. The 2264.50 and the Co-Axial Diver 300M represent two different philosophies—one is the ultimate tool watch, the other a modern luxury diver. It all comes down to your wrist, your style, and what you value in a watch.

But if you're like me—and you appreciate slim proportions, clean design, and a no-fuss experience—the 2264.50 will always be hard to beat.

Which side are you on? New or old? Let us know—and don’t forget to dress it up with a strap that suits your style

Check out our Seamaster straps here!

https://yorkshirewatchstraps.com/collections/seamaster-fkm-rubber-straps